- Young Gentleman Louis XIII period - 1625 - 1640
Young Gentleman Louis XIII period - 1625 - 1640 - Women's Costume during the Directory - 1795 - 1800
Women's Costume during the Directory - 1795 - 1800 - Tie-back skirt
Tie-back skirt Late '7o's and Early '8o's The bustle remained an important feature after the panier effect had been discarded. The skirts were made severely plain and were pulled back by strings, so as to fit with extreme snugness in the front. At the back, however, they were drawn out over a bustle of such extent that the fashion plates of the late '70's now have the appearance of caricatures. - The more practical gown of the Empire Period
The more practical gown of the Empire Period - The Incroyable of the Revolution Period - 1795
The Incroyable of the Revolution Period - 1795 "Incroyable" (incredible) was the sobriquet given to the fops or dandies of the later Revolutionary period. Here is the description of one of these remarkably dressed personages as given by the French writer, Honore de Balzac: The costume of his unknown presented an exact picture of the fashion which at that time called forth the caricatures of the Incroyables. Imagine a person muffled in a coat so short in front that there showed beneath five or six inches of the waistcoat and with skirts so long behind that they resembled a codfish tail, a term then commonly employed to designate them. An immense cravat formed round his neck such innumerable folds that the little head emerging from a labyrinth of muslin almost justified Captain Merle's kitchen simile. [Merle had described the Incroyable as looking "like a duck with its head protruding from a game pie."] The stranger wore tight breeches and boots a la Suwarrow; a huge white and blue cameo was stuck, as a pin, in his shirt. Two watch chains hung in parallel festoons at his waist, and his hair, hanging in corkscrew curls on each side of the face, almost hid his forehead. Finally, as a last touch of decoration, the collars of his shirt and his coat rose so high that his head presented the appearance of a bouquet in its paper wrappings. If there be added to these insignificant details, which formed a mass of disparities with no ensemble, the absurd contrast of his yellow breeches, his red waistcoat, his cinnamon brown coat, a faithful portrait will be given of the height of fashion at which dandies aimed at the beginning of the Consulate Preposterous as the costume was, it seemed to have been invented as a sort of touchstone of elegance to show that nothing can be too absurd for fashion to hallow it. - The Grecian Bend
The Grecian Bend , a feature of the late 70's - The Extreme of the Crinoline - 1862
NO radical change in womens' costumes occurrred until the early fifties when what are known as the "Second Empire" styles were introduced. A remarkable feature of the fashions set by Eugenie, the consort of Napoleon III, was the enormous crinoline, of which we have more than once in recent years been threatened with a revival. The monstrous dimensions of women's skirts during the period from 1853 to the early seventies afforded an excellent theme for the pencil of the comic artist, and those who care to search the volumes of "Punch" and other illustrated publications of English and French origin, as well as those produced at the time in this country, will find both exact reproductions and caricatures of this style of costume. - The 1840 style
The 1840 style - The 1830 Effect
The 1830 Effect - Street costume Late Louis XVI period - 1790
Street costume Late Louis XVI period - 1790 - Reversion to the classic (Grecian) type
Reversion to the classic (Grecian) type - Mousquetaire or Cavalier Costume 1620 - 1640
Mousquetaire or Cavalier Costume 1620- 1640 - Morning costume of Dandy of the early Revolutionary period - 1791
Morning costume of Dandy of the early Revolutionary period - 1791 - Middle class costume during French Revolution - showing Charlotte Corday cap
Middle class costume during French Revolution - showing Charlotte Corday cap - Men's street costume Late Revolution and early Empire
Men's street costume Late Revolution and early Empire - Marie Antoinette style - Late Louis XVI period - 1790
Marie Antoinette style - Late Louis XVI period - 1790 - Louis XV
Dress in the time of Louis XV - Louis XIV Period - about 1700
Louis XIV Period - about 1700 - Louis XIV Period - about 1670
Louis XIV Period - about 1670 - Louis XIII - about 1640
Louis XIII - about 1640 - Henry IV or early Stuart - 1600 - 1615
Henry IV or early Stuart - 1600 - 1615 - Gentleman of the early Louis XV Period
Gentleman of the early Louis XV Period - French Restoration period - 1823
French Restoration period - 1823 - Later Louis XIV Period 1700 - 1715
Later Louis XIV Period 1700 - 1715 - Late Empire - Ball dress and street costume
Late Empire - Ball dress and street costume - Henry IV or early Stuart Period
Henry IV or early Stuart Period - Evening dress of Directoire and early first Empire 1798 - 1804
Evening dress of Directoire and early first Empire 1798 - 1804 - Elizabethan or Marie Stuart Period - 1558 - 1600
Elizabethan or Marie Stuart Period - 1558 - 1600 - Elizabethan or Henry III Period - showing Medicis Collar
Elizabethan or Henry III Period - showing Medicis Collar - Elizabethan or Henry III - 1570
Elizabethan or Henry III - 1570 - Early days of the crinoline - 1855
Early days of the crinoline - 1855 - Days of the pannier
Days of the pannier - Court Dress 1550 - Tudor or Francis I
Court Dress 1550 - Tudor or Francis I - Court Dress 1540 - Tudor or Francis I
Court Dress 1540 - Tudor or Francis I - Court costume Louis XVI - about 1780
Court costume Louis XVI - about 1780 - Costume of Manservant - reign of Louis XIII
Costume of Manservant - reign of Louis XIII - Citizens Dress of 1545
Citizens Dress of 1545 - Ball Costume 1825
Ball Costume 1825 - Noble of the Tudor or Louis XI Period
Noble of the Tudor or Louis XI Period - Court Dress of tudor or Louis XI Period
Court Dress of tudor or Louis XI Period - Court Dress of 1390
Court Dress of 1390 - Court Dress - Early 15th Century
Court Dress - Early 15th Century - Citizen of Early tudor or Louis XI Period
Citizen of Early tudor or Louis XI Period - Young Gentleman of the 14th Century
Young Gentleman of the 14th Century - Young Woman's dress - 14th Century
Young Woman's dress - 14th Century - Nobleman of the 13th Century
Nobleman of the 13th Century - Court Dress - Latter part of 13th Century
Court Dress - Latter part of 13th Century - Jerboa
Jerboa - Improved high speed engine and dynamo
We illustrate a high speed engine and dynamo constructed by Easton & Anderson, London. This plant was used at the Royal Agricultural Society's show at Doncaster in testing the machinery in the dairy, and constituted a distinct innovation, as well as an improvement, on the appliances previously employed for the purpose. The separator, or whatever might be the machine under trial, was driven by an electric motor fed by a current from the dynamo we illustrate. A record was made of the volts and amperes used, and from this the power expended was deduced, the motor having been previously carefully calibrated by means of a brake. So delicate was the test that the observers could detect the presence of a warm bearing in the separator from the change in the readings of the ammeter. - Improved high speed engine and dynamo - fig 2
The engine is carefully balanced to enable it to run at the very high speed of 500 revolutions per minute. The cranks are opposite each other, and the moving parts connected with the two pistons are of the same weight. The result is complete absence of vibration, and exceedingly quiet running. Very liberal lubricating arrangements are fitted to provide for long runs, while uniformity of speed is provided for by a Pickering governor. The high pressure cylinder is 4 in. in diameter, and the low pressure cylinder is 7 in. in diameter. The stroke in each case is 4 in. - Pentapterygium serpens
This is one of five species of Himalayan plants which, until recently, were included in the genus vaccinium. The new name for them is ugly enough to make one wish that they were vacciniums still. Pentapterygium serpens is the most beautiful of the lot, and, so far as I know, this and P. rugosum are the only species in cultivation in England. The former was collected in the Himalayas about ten years ago by Captain Elwes, who forwarded it to Kew, where it grows and flowers freely under the same treatment as suits Cape heaths. - Pentapterygium serpens (flowers deep crimson)
In the wet season they push out new shoots, from which grow rapidly wands three or four feet long, clothed with box-like leaves, and afterward with numerous pendulous flowers. These are elegant in shape and richly colored. They are urn-shaped, with five ribs running the whole length of the corolla, and their color is bright crimson with deeper colored V-shaped veins, as shown in the illustration of the flowers of almost natural size. They remain fresh upon the plant for several weeks. The beautiful appearance of a well grown specimen when in flower may be seen from the accompanying sketch of the specimen at Kew, which was at its best in July, and remained in bloom until the middle of September. - Dusting the letters before firing
The letters are now taken charge of by a girl, who lays them out on a wire tray, the hollow side up, and paints them over with a thin mordant. While they are in this position, and before the mordant dries, they are taken on the gridiron-like tray to a kind of large box, which is full of the powdered enamel, and, holding the tray in her left hand, the girl takes a fine sieve full of the powder and dusts it over the letter, all superfluous powder falling through the open wirework and into the bin again, so that there is absolutely no waste. - Filing the letters after enameling
This is done by girls, who, with very fine files, rub off the edges and any protuberances which may be there. Every letter is subject to this operation, and all are turned out smooth and well finished. - The Blacksmith
The Blacksmith - Mixing the enamel
Mixing the enamel - Firing the letters
The disk containing the enameled letters is taken at the end of a long iron handle and carefully placed in a dome-shaped muffle. These muffles are all heated from the outside; that is, the fire is all round the chamber, but not in it, the fumes of the sulphur being destructive of the enamel if they are allowed to come into contact with it. So intense is the heat, however, that a muffle lasts only about nine days, and at the end of that time has to be renewed. - A Steam Street Railway Motor
While in Paris, President Yerkes, of the North Chicago Street Railway Company, purchased a noiseless steam motor, the results in experimenting with which will be watched with great interest. The accompanying engraving, for which we are indebted to the Street Railway Review, gives a very accurate idea of the general external appearance. The car is all steel throughout, except windows, doors, and ceiling. It is 12 ft. long, 8 ft. wide, and 9 ft. high, and weighs about seven tons. The engines, which have 25 horsepower and are of the double cylinder pattern, are below the floor and connected directly to the wheels. The wheels are four in number and 31 in. in diameter. The internal appearance and general arrangement of machinery, etc., is about that of the ordinary steam dummy. It will run in either direction, and the exhaust steam is run through a series of mufflers which suppress the sound, condense the steam and return the water to the boiler, which occupies the center of the car. The motor was built in Ghent, Belgium, and cost about $5,000, custom house duties amounting to about $2,000 more. - Page frame
Page border - Musical instrument divider
Musical instrument divider